Pembrokesire Coast Path

Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Dale to St. Anne's Head

From Dale to St. Anne’s Head

 

The sunny and hot weather is not a common occurrence in Wales so I decided to spend one of the July weekends in Pembrokeshire. As I am not much of a “lying-on-the-beach-and-doing-nothing” person I thought I could walk some of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path sections. I had already spent some time near Cardigan before and really liked it so to explore more I chose to check out the area around Marloes. I invited one of my friends and off we went, straight to Haverfordwest and then a few turns to Marloes. We wanted to grab some lunch in the Clock House (recommended everywhere). Well, planning and researching beforehand does not always help, the Clock House was closed. Hungry and angry I noticed a pub sign and I sighed with relief. Too soon, “sorry no food served” we’ve heard (we found out later that the chef was sick).

Beach near Dale, Pembrokehisre Coast Path

Beach near Dale

We went to Dale then where we finally had something nice to eat. Dale is a nice little place and a good start to walk towards St. Anne’s Head lighthouse. Lovely views, steep cliffs, green grass, blue ocean waters and a windy path ahead made my day. The path was not very demanding, just a few steeper sections often with a wooden steps to make walking even easier. I guess it could be more difficult, were the path muddy. But unusual for Wales a few weeks of sunshine made the trail a pleasure to walk. On the way back we stopped at a lovely small beach at the Mill Bay with the remnaints of the wreck. This was also the place where Henry VII landed in the 15th century, and as I have been watching “The White Queen” series on BBC, seeing the place added to my understanding what he and his troops had to fight against.

The remnants of HMS Barking on the beach at Mill Bay, Pembrokeshire Coast Path

The remnants of HMS Barking on the beach at Mill Bay

 

Not wanting to risk another disappointment in the pub in Marloes, we drove to Haverfordwest for dinner. We chose an Indian restaurant Taj Mahal and it was a very good decision. Lovely interiors, nice customer service but what was the most important, they served delicious food. I had a mouthwatering salmon dish, one of the best dishes I have ever tasted.

On the following day we chose to walk from Marloes Sands to Deer Park with its Iron Age fort. This is an extremely beautiful section of the Path, steep cliffs with the blue or even turquoise ocean background. Again not an overly demanding path. I enjoyed it the most though when it was just two of us walking without too many tourists around. The closer to the car park, the more likely we would encounter groups of people with big hiking boots, backpacks and maps. I could not understand why they were studying maps so intensely as there was actually no possibility of getting lost on the clearly marked path in such a good weather…

Gateholm - a tidal island, Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Gateholm – a tidal island

Deer Park waters, Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Deer Park waters

We then turned back to Marloes Sands to admire the famous Marloes Sands beach. It is an amazing sandy beach which gets bigger and bigger when the tide gets lower. Being in such a beautiful place I could not deny myself swimming again. The water was really cold but I didn’t mind (at least not after a few minutes of very slow going in and very fast coming out). My friend wasn’t as brave as me and just chose to be frying on a rock.

Marloes Sands beach, Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Marloes Sands beach

After a lazy relax on the beach we drove to Little Haven, a cute fishermen village. At low tide one can walk on the beach all the way to Broad Haven. It doesn’t seem very long but believe me it is quite a good workout. Be careful when walking in or close to the water as you might step on jellyfish.

Broad Haven to LIttle Haven beach walk, Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Broad Haven to LIttle Haven beach walk

To finish our day we drove to St David’s stopping on the way in Solva which was recommended to us by the lady we met in the hostel. The “high street” in Solva was worth to stop by so we wandered around a little bit. St. David’s is nice with a great cathedral and abbey ruins if you like a bit of history. I didn’t go inside the cathedral as there was a service there at the time when we arrived. I didn’t want to end up like my friend who went in and was then led to the bench and handed in a songbook… If you look for a place to eat in St. David’s I would recommend The Grove. I ordered chicken with lemon & courgette rosti, green beans and lemon thyme jus. All I can say is that never mind the chicken, but I would become a vegetarian if I could prepare veg like that.

Click here for Pembrokeshire Coast Path info

 

2 replies
  1. Tom Bennett
    Tom Bennett says:

    Fantastic pictures and a well written article about the Pembrokeshire coast. I must make a comment about some detail, The name of the large impressive beach is MARLOES. The submarine wreck is in Watwick Bay and not Mill Bay. Your photo shows the remnants of HMS Barking that ended up in Mill Bay whilst being towed to the scrap yard, no parts of the WWI submarine can be seen above the water in Watwick. Tom Bennett .

    Reply
    • Justyna
      Justyna says:

      Thank you very much for your comment, Tom. I have no idea how I was able to misspell Marloes, I guess my computer did some auto-corrections. I have corrected the text and image captures.

      Reply

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